Italy - part 2 - The train, Ostia, Herculaneum

Train to Rome

The train to Rome was nice, had free Wi-Fi, and was quick.  Our friend’s arranged the train tickets and we were lucky to have our own cabin with 4 large, comfy chairs. The train went through some very picturesque places and was a nice change of pace from driving or flying.  Once we reached the Rome station we bought tickets for the airport train so we could go pick up our rental car.  Once at the airport we picked up the van and it was much larger than we expected but it turned out to be a good choice.  We headed out to Ostia to our hotel (we didn't stay in Rome proper but at the beach close to the train station into Rome); then over to our friend’s friends place where they’d be staying. 

Our cabin

 Just across the street, parking lot and street is the beach from our hotel

Ostia

Our hotel was fairly close to where Jean and Harvey were staying at Wendy’s house and we went up and met Wendy, her husband and daughter.  We then all went to dinner at a place called Pomodori Verdi Fritti (Fried Green Tomatoes).  They had such great food and offer a gluten-free menu (Wendy is gluten-free).  Don ordered a mix of things from a spicy pork crostini to fried Zucchini blossoms (yum!) and other yummy foods.  I had the 6 cheese pizza which was amazing and pretty much the best pizza I ate the whole time we were in Italy.    During dinner we got to know Wendy and Max and they us, as we talked about what we’d be trying to do and see for our time there.  Jean was there for Wendy’s Birthday and to see the baby so we tried to plan accordingly.  We honestly thought we’d spend Saturday at Wendy’s party during the winery tour and then our Sunday trip to Herculaneum and that’d be it but we’d end up eating dinner together most nights.

Pizza box

the liter of beer notice the ingredients listed

Winery tour - Casale Del Giglio

The Winery was about an hour away from Ostia and HUGE compared to the Winery’s we’re used to.  The tour was delayed a bit as we waited for everyone to arrive so we took pictures and mingled.  This tour was for Wendy's birthday party because her actual birthday fell on Tuesday. Once the tour started, our guide asked if someone could translate, thankfully someone did; since so many Italian words don’t really translate into English equivalents she did an amazing job conveying what the guide was saying.

 our guide and Wendy's friend who translated for us

 The group picture was missing about 6 people

He took us around outside and showed us the different grapes vines, explaining the differences in where they plant the red versus white and explaining the history of the land as well.  We then went inside to see where the white was made and then into the cellar with the red wine barrels which are only used three times before being given a new life elsewhere as tables, planters, or mementos for regular clients.

He explained how the winery was 100% self sustained with solar panels and plant energy as well as recycling all water used.  We then headed inside for Birthday toast to Wendy, food (pork, bread, cheese) and wine tasting.  At the end we were given guides and were able to purchase wine to take home, which we did.

not all wines were opened for tasting

We then all drove down to a local restaurant that handles large parties down from the winery.  They served so much great food and then Wendy’s birthday cake and espresso.

Afterwards, everyone wanted to go to the beach and watch the sunset but we went back to Wendy’s so the baby could sleep and we could rest.  We stayed there for a few hours then went back to our hotel for the night to prep for our drive the next morning.

Herculaneum

This morning was fun since Rome had day light savings time so we lost yet another hour. We piled into the car, pulled up GPS and headed out to Herculaneum.  Max warned us to stop for gas before a certain place so we stopped one stop ahead of that.  Well, lesson learned here, never pull into the full service lane without knowing exactly how many liters of gas your vehicle will take.  Unlike in the US if you say fill it up and the attendant sees how much money you have he will fill it up to that amount.  So while we got about 20 Euros of gas they bumped the pump up to 50.  They apparently have a button on the pump.  As I said, lesson learned and it wouldn't happen again after that stop. 

Back on the road to Naples, OK we didn't realize that Herculaneum was smack dab in the middle of Naples.  We thought it was just outside the city which we had wanted to avoid.  After some pretty hairy circling with tons of cars and people on the narrow streets trying to figure out exactly where to go and park we finally found it.  

 300 preserved skeletons rest in those buildings and even the walkway is closed off

 the steps up and down are huge steps

So many surviving frescoes and still vibrant although not as many as Pompeii

We had planned on going to Paestum after but didn't realize it was another 90 minute drive and by the time we finished in the ruins it would be too late so we drove up Mt. Vesuvius instead and took some sunset pictures of Naples from the mountain.  I do not recommend that drive for the faint of heart; tons of hairpin turns and fast driving locals, as well as bus tours on basically a one lane road.

 Looking down from Mt. Vesuvius 

We drove back to Ostia, picked up Wendy and the baby and went to dinner.  It was a fish/vegetarian bio restaurant.  Jean and I don’t eat fish so we had eggplant pizza and everyone else enjoyed their fish dishes.